Nothern Malawi Muzungus

Hey Mzungus !*

Malawi is full of people.
The lake doesn’t always look like the brochures.
Nyika plateau is cold
Lake Malawi is warm
Road up to Livingstonia is not to be missed



We are at the most northerly point of our planned trip. At a spot called Sangilo on NE shore of Lake Malawi, next town up is the border to Tanzania, and we can see it’s mountains on the distant shore.

Malawi is full of people. – Most densely populated country in Africa. Wherever we’ve driven, there are always people in view – bustling villages & towns, and between villages, huts with veggie gardens, bicycles and pedestrians always in view.

Taxi rank in Selima

Very friendly, always greeting pleasantly – apart from some kids who delight in shouting ‘hey mzungu’, or ‘hello mzungu’ (*African word for white people) sometimes followed by ‘gimme pen’ , ‘gimme sweets’ or ‘gimme your money’. Mzungus are seen to be endlessly wealthy and the solution to poverty and all their need.
Being here, surrounded by such need, gives a new perspective to our possessions and diet. When we sometimes make a breakfast of bacon & eggs, it’s more animal protein than many see in a month. They do have fish & occasional pork or beef, but the daily staple (and for many, the only) is cassava, beans, tomatoes and other veg.
We are learning not to respond purely to need, but as we sense the Holy Spirit would lead us to, usually more in the direction of friendship, and treating people with dignity – as many are overly deferential & acquiescent =meek, for those who haven’t been playing Scrabble as often as Shalon & Res. Malawians have the odd habit of transposing l’s and r’s, even in signage. We’ve seen professionally painted signs such as’The Good Samalitan’ and heard that in Senga Bay during elections, some signs indicated directions to Erections or Erection Point !
Back to responding to need… I think this is a lesson for Shalon & I as we consider the future, not to be need-driven, but led by His Spirit.

The lake doesn’t always look like the brochures. During June/July the wind blows SE most days up the lake, making the central and north western shore choppy with poor water clarity, and not as pretty as the usual travel photos. We arrived from Zambia at Senga Bay via Lilongwe, to be greeted by a stormy sea (2ft choppy waves) and gloomy sky. Moved up the coast to a beautiful spot, but after more wind started, decided to divert to Nyika National Park for a while.

Nyika plateau is cold. You mzungus in the Cape were warm, compared to us. It was 6˚in he morning with a freezing wind blowing. Some game, we mainly saw roan antelope & bushbuck, but breathtaking views over Zambia and the start of the Great Rift Valley. Met two great new friends, Jim & Adam from UK, intrepid ‘skrik vir niks’ hikers, and explored Nyika with them in the Colt.

Lake Malawi is warm. Returning to thaw downstairs at the lake, where we are now, had some great swims in the lake – really pleasant, and a bit of snorkeling – but no great visibility. May hire the lodge owner’s catamaran and have a sail on the lake today, dependant on the wind strength, Shalon & Res not being expert sailors. (oops – just started raining, maybe only sail if weather clears- but at least it’s washing the thick dust off car & caravan)

Road up to Livingstonia is not to be missed. Yesterday we went up an amazing rough track, 20 hairpin bends, up 700m in about 10km, to the historically significant mission settlement of Livingstonia, with awesome views over the lake. There is a museum of Livingstone and the guys who started the churches, built schools, translated the bible into Chichewe and fought against slavery.

Tomorrow we’re probably off back south, heading for Cape Maclear area at bottom of the of lake (southern end, not underwater, you wiseguys) where, as any surfer would know, the wind will be offshore, so less chop and probably better diving conditions.

Catch up with you later, mzungus!
Love,
Res & Shalon