Eastern Cape Gnus

Eastern Cape Gnus

Hello to y’all, ‘specially those whingeing about tardiness of a latest update.
I just felt SA is so familiar, the things we do and see are so ordinary compared to those beyond the borders, that the gnusworthiness is somewhat lacking, bordering on boring and me having to work up the enthusiasm to write, but looking at the pix since last time, suddenly felt a flash of spark, resulting in long sentences like this, which, if you are still reading, will shortly come to a full stop.
On our last day of Natal S Coast, visited Beaver Creek coffee estate, drank too many cups of Java, and looked over the Mtavuna gorge towards the ‘Kei - a world heritage site.
The rain and lack of sun drove us to skip 'Kei this time and head inland to Burgersdorp – near Aliwal North, to visit dear friends John & Karen Herbert who are leading a warm & vibrant congregation – Burgersdorp Family Church. Despite 3 days of chatting, eating together & exploring the town and meeting several of their friends, we forgot to take any photos of them – sorry guys, missed your 5 min of fame on this blog. But I have one overlooking the town, and loking north, taken when Karen & I were comparing cameras, landscape & sunset shots.


On the way to the coast, we stayed over at Mountain Zebra National Park, near Cradock. Campsite a bit full because of the Fish River Canoe Marathon, but quite a different park. Here’s where we saw some gnus, which gives this dissertation some gnusworthiness.
These gnus are black wildebeest, differing from their blue wildebeest cousins with white tails andforward-pointing horns. Nice picnic sites with swimming pools too!

From there, to our favourite Yellowsands, which has constant surf, birdsong and stunning outlook over the lagoon & sea

. This time, tho’ we waited a week, had mainly overcast weather and some rain. Bev n Anne, Lindy’s inlaws, joined us for an overnight camp.
Some expert surfers showing off in front of our campsite,
And another who should reconsider his activities, and maybe stay on the beach!
Lovely landscapes in the area – this one towards Glen Eden, we just love this place. Met and had good fellowship with several of the Glen Eden Church folk, who made us feel right at home.
Then , on the way to PE, we had 2 great days & nights at abovementioned Bev & Anne on their smallholding in Southwell, inland from Port Alfred.

Now in Port Elizabeth, camping near the beaches at Pine Lodge, and spending tme with my sister Theresa and hubby Ted. So far no surf here, but a fair bit of beasterly easterly (onshore)

Attempted a self-timer shot on the beach, but the stairway where I balanced the camera was a bit far from where we were posed, the 10 sec timer a bit too short,

but eventually got there in time….


J-Bay next week…

Drakensberg & KZN South Coast

After a really relaxing stay at Don & Joy in Randburg, we set off, recharged and with Colt & Xcape happier at having enjoyed some TLC.
Headed for the Drakensberg, where we camped at Injisuthi, a relatively rustic camp between Monk’s Cowl & Giant’s Castle.

Went for a ‘walk’ to the viewpoint, which was more strenuous than expected, but were rewarded with great scenery at the top.

After 2 days, hit the road, and made our way to the coast –







First night at Rocky Bay was windy, ... then next few days at Kelso (Happy Wanderers camp) were cloudy & rainy.


Since then have travelled south to Trafalgar – Port o’ Call camp, which must be one of the best in the country. Thus far only 1 surf on KZN coast in nearly a week. Mainly windy & rainy, so no pix. Another front of 3 days rain expected tomorrow, so gonna hibernate into our ‘van at T.O. Strand til it stops, then to the ‘Kei. However, front brings SW winds = offshore :-)
so maybe score some waves…



Can’t moan about the weather now, after having nearly 5 months of stunning African sunshine.

Tot siens!

Back - in the RSA

Moz – Jburg Last report was sent from our ‘casita’ (above) in Tofu beach. Realised I hadn’t shown an actual picture of Tofu beach, so here it is.

Nearby town Inhambane has great architecture, and since we’ve last been here, much renovation and painting has really given the town a brighter feel.

From Tofu we moved down to Ponta Zavora, a beach with an excellent reef for snorkeling, and seeing more fishies. Harold, last year we camped near the gate with the crappy ablution – found out there is another lekker camping area on top of the dune, overlooking the beach.

Just to show you it’s not all beer & skittles, working in the sand at the campsite, readjusted Colt’s front wheel bearings ( which, as we speak, are being replaced here in J’burg)

On route to Maputo, popped down to Mar de Sol near Quissico, where there are these turquoise lakes just inshore of the beach dunes. Beach looks like the SA wild coast.

Slept over at Casa Lisa near Maputo, then spent a harrowing hour or so thru 5km of Maputo’s hectic, intense rush hour. On a single lane road, there are 3 lanes, one proper one on the road, buses & taxis 5cm away on the left hand verge, dodging pedestrians, shops, stuck vehicles, and on the right hand ( in the approaching traffic lane), more of what’s on the left. These all push into one lane when a cop is seen.

After the border, we decided on Kruger’s tar roads, but the park was 38 degrees and packed with the older generation ( a pensioner discount period being in force) and we struggled to get a campsite.

Anyway, seen enuff animals, so next morning, which arrived chilly & misty, went via Pilgrim’s Rest to camp at Dullstroom which was freezing.

Nearing Pretoria, on route to Don & Joy’s in Randburg, Colt started rumbling and shaking. Found a universal joint on the propshaft knackered.

So had that fixed, treated the old girl (Colt, not Sharon) to new front wheel bearings, caravan to a new axle in Vereeniging, so all is good & clean & fresh for the upcoming section – Drakensberg, then Natal south coast & the ‘Kei.

We’re getting soft here at Don & Joy’s, what with sleeping in a house, the bleedin’ luxury of showers, tea & biscuits and meals all day, so before we lose our nerve, we’ll have to hit the highway again…

Papaws, Prawns, Palms, Pansy Shells, Peachy days, Perfect waves..

Gently does it!
Leaving Beira, ‘popped in’ at Zim border 300km away to get TIP ( temp import permit) extended. Taking it slow now with caravan, don’t need more complications.
Long drive south next day to coast, great road until the last 100km or so of really vrot potholed and broken tar. Stayed over at Inhasorro, with a nearby night club pounding all night. At 1am moved caravan into lee of nearby building to reduce volume level and try & get some sleep.

Then about 50km or so of sand road to Pomene Lodge – which is Stunning wif a kaptil S.

Pomene is situated on a sand spit, with a conservation area estuary on the inside, where we snorkeled around sunken trees, seeing the biggest tropical angelfish I’ve ever seen, zebras, moorish idols, pencilfish, squid, pansy shells, and all n all.

Had some good surf days ‘somewhere in the area’ too. Say No More, nudge-nudge, wink-wink, know what I mean?

Further south at Morrungulo, a lovely campsite with ripoff pricing, really enjoyed the beach, papaws, and prawns on the barbie.

Leaving Morrungulo on another sand road, some serious knocking started from the caravan on every bump - found the shock absorber in the towhitch A-frame broken. I remembered an entry on the 4x4 forum which mentioned the “Very Basic Mechanic “at nearby Masinga. Sure enough, the Tracks4Africa map on the GPS had the “Very Basic Mechanic “ listed and shortly we had the shock welded up sharp sharp!

Then on to Tofu beach area, where the little camping there is, is really dreadful, oh so awfully unbearable. So, as we’ve done twice before, scouted the area and cut a deal with Nordin’s Lodge on the beach. A sweet little casita, with a basic en-suite and our Jurgens Xcape is looking lonely, parked outside, sleeping on it’s ownsome for 4 nights.

Tofu beach! – a really great beach – complete with vendors trying to sell you handbags, bracelets, shells, prawns, squid, paintings etc, etc – too many times every day.

A good escape is the next bay, Tofinho, which is probably Mozambique’s best-known surf break. Cooking this morning, and after my second surf today, arms & shoulders too sore to paddle out again, typing is a lot less strenuous.

So here I sit, outside my casita, overlooking sunny beautiful Tofu beach, Sharon next to me reading ‘Emma’s War’ – about Sudan..and life doesn’t get much peachier!

Tomorrow, off to fairly nearby Ponta Zavora for a few days, then to the Republic of South Africa – heard it’s a beautiful country too.
We were going to go in via northern Kruger Park, but latest info I can find says the part of the road is quite corrugated and stony – which we’ve had enough of until I get the ‘van permanently repaired with a new axle- so we’ll take the boring tar road via Maputo to Komatipoort. Prob a short detour via southern Kruger’s tar roads to Joburg to visit Don and Joy.

Thereafter, God-willing…
.. not gonna tell you - you can read it on the next blog.

That’s enough about us and our indolent, hedonistic lifestyle. How about you? How are you, and what are you doing?