Friday, June 12, 2009

A Tale of 3 Rivers.




Reached the end of Caprivi, at Katima Mulilo, camping on the banks of the Zambezi. Have driven just over 7000km since home, & the beast recently clocked over 200 000 km – still going like a boeing.




In our last post, we were in Rundu, on the banks of the Okavango, after which we moved to the ‘Popa Falls’ (more like just popa rapids) area, still on the Okavango. Stayed at a really special campsite Nunda, with great hosts, who have spent years touring Africa and who shared some advice etc with us




Popa & Moma @ Popa



While there, we heard that our next river, the Kwando, was in flood. ( Kwando becomes Linyati, then becomes Chobe) Our first choice of venue was a bush camp, but inaccessible due to track under water. Met some friends who spent 9 hours recovering their vehicle from that road. Stayed at nearby Namushahsa whose access road was only partly under water.








Lovely views over swamps & network of wandering river sections. While there, our non-stop sunny days were interrupted by ‘freak’ unseasonal rain – almost non-stop thunder, lightning & showers for 2 nights & 1 ½ days. Scrabble and comfortable caravan came to the rescue, and only 1 awning pole damaged when a cloudburst & wind caused it to collapse. (mcGyvered a fix today, no spare poles for sale here).Did a partial explore of 2 parks Mudumu & Mamili but gave up due to excessive dampness & thick mud.




As already said now on 3rd river, Zambezi, which we still plan to cross three times – in a day or two as we cross into Zambia, going up to Sioma (Ngonye) falls, then higher up nearer the source of the Zambezi in Western Zambia, (if the ferry is working at Kalangola on the Barotse flood plain), then again in Mozambique on our way down. Not very confident that we can go via the ferry as the rain has been heavy and over a large area- all the way from Windhoek to Caprivi, and into Zambia too..
























Tonight we had quite a unique experience. At this camp Namwi, there is a young hippo bull which is known to roam the campsite and graze at night, nicknamed ‘Stompie’. Well this evening, he came out earlier than usual, and spent the night grazing under our neighbour’s table, whicle they were cooking, then around us as we were eating. Sharon, myself & Mattie next tent, were all nuzzled by a hippo, as a dog would sniff and rub his nose against you. Sharon had hippo saliva on her sandled foot. To be honest, it was a little scary as this is still a wild animal and could do anything, but we felt quite sorry for it as it has probably been isolated from its herd, flock, pod, school of fellow hippopotami.




Have met and had good interactions with so many people – from lodge & camp owners, campsite staff to fellow travelers. At times it feels like the trip we are doing is nothing special, as there are people from so many countries travelling in the area, doing similar trips, some of which are more extravagant, others far more scheduled & mundane. What is great for us is the lack of any schedule, not having to be anywhere by any date.



A bit of a ramble…
.....been reflecting on the greatness of creation, the varied terrain from desert to bush to forest and swamps, each with its own beauty, special plants and incredible birds & animals and how grand this whole scheme is. However, I’ve had the increasing sense of a much grander scheme “behind” it all, grander than rivers & animals, space & the stars, which are all ultimately going to pass away – but there is this awesome God “hidden” behind creation, who loves us simple people with a love greater than all of creation, as He revealed in Jesus, who jealously wants all of us, with us not holding anything back from Him. In the words of (I think) Kim Walker: “I wont relent until You have it all” – and God will not relent to get all of our hearts & attention, and we should not relent until we’re giving it all to Him. What’s this got to do with travelling anyway? As I said, when we travel, we see so much more of what He has created, but furthermore, it seems a few of the people we’ve met regard the travel experience as the ultimate purpose in life, spending their savings & lives at the altar of travel, and just having to see & experience more & more, which can be a trap as much as being caught up in work, a career, sport, or making money, or whatever – just somehow missing the point of it all..
.......we ramble on



Well, MTC, my mobile service provider in Nam, had given pretty good coverage over all so far, making email and internet possible, will have to see how Zambia compares. Til next time – probably via ZAIN (ex Celtel Zambia)

3 comments:

  1. Hi Les and Sharon. This is my first view of your blog, I'm quite envious of your travels, I must say. I love the descriptions and the photos. Thanks Sharon for thinking of us. I can still hear your voice from the stage at LCC singing out that song, maker of the heavens.....
    If you should cross the river at Kazangula, spare a thought for me 20 years ago doing a tour of duty on an observation post on the river. We were the most westerly members of the entire Rhodesian security forces, hmmm.
    Much love your friends Sam and Lise.

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  2. Am loving following your posts...
    Well put regarding the 'altar of travels'- we too saw many happily obsessed with seeing more, going further, seeking the ultimate adventure, not realising that what they are looking for is not found in creation but in the One who made the creation.
    Continue to enjoy Him, one another and the long road that stretches before you.

    Lotsa love,
    R

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  3. Hello my friends, its been great to travel with you so far. The pic of Katima Mulilo had me thinking of my army days when i spent 3 months there, a great safari at the gov's expence hehehe
    Love Harold

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