Chilling in South Luangwa warmth

Saturday afternoon- camping on the banks of the Luangwa river, been here nearly a week already. When we arrived here at Wildlife Camp, which is across the river from South Luangwa National Park, it looked like the place to take a break from all the driving. So we’ve been reading, watching the family life of a pod of hippos directly in front of us, swimming in a pool overlooking the river in the heat of the afternoons, Scrabble in the evenings after the “de rigueur” braai.


Met some really interesting people here too – various lodge owners & guests, several medical students doing prac at hospitals in Zambia & Malawi, a trio of pensioners (not fake ones like us) with a huge caravan who have been on the road for 8 years!
Took an evening and a morning drive thru the park, not lucky enough to see leopards & wild dogs for which this area is famous – but what was interesting was the amazing range of terrain – from riverside to mopane forests, dusty plains to marshes with hippos munching their way thru waterplants. Outside the park, ( and some in the camps at night) hippo, crocs, elephant, impala & puku ( similar to impala).


Every evening is a picture-perfect sunset
( stopped taking pix of them now),
and as I’m sitting in a camp chair
pecking at the laptop, the setting sun is
again reflecting a rich orange off the river,
highlighting the yawning hippos.
They must get pretty tired sleeping all day!












We’ll probably still relax here tomorrow, (can’t do more than a Sabbath day’s journey on a Sunday) and duck early Monday morning, through Chipata/Mchingi border into Malawi, thru Lilongwe for supplies and to the lake at Senga Bay. See you there!

Seen on the road from Lusaka to here….( 2 missed calls? )

The Road Less Travelled

Just watched Zambia lose 2-0 to Algeria, in a kind of pub full of Zambian supporters. Even though losing, what a cheerful and happy nation – there was no gloom, just laughing and enthusiasm even after the match. Huge load-shedding power cuts here in Lusaka ( in fact all of Zambia) stays off for about 6 hours at a time, most days.

After expensive border crossing ( about R1000 for us & our vehicle to enter Zambia) – we took the track upstream ( 4 ½ hours /130km) along the Zambezi,

staying over a few days near Ngonye Falls, Sioma, where we had a wonderful swim, where some local women found it safe to bathe. Nevertheless kept all eyes open for crocs. Not nearly as high as Vic Falls, but about 8 different falls coming in from all sides. The Zambezi splits into many sections just above the falls. Difficult to get near to main falls. Picture below makes them look very small and low, but is pretty impressive.

Sharon 'on the rocks' after the swim

Next day, crossed the Zambezi further up on the ‘pontoon’. If all goes ok, we should be crossing it again on the way down in Mozambique in a few months time.

Some fish caught by locals in the Zambezi at the ferry. I asked what kind of fish, the answer "Just fish"

Following the ferry was the most tiring section of “road” ever. At a puddle with a stuck Landy, some guy pointed a course, and without hesitation (no going back from here!) we just went thru, -thanks be to God- water over bonnet, Colt & caravan bouncing over the unseen holes and sandbanks. The local told me afterwards “ You drive like military!”

Some guys appeared out of the bush with planks ( which didn't help) at this washed away bridge.

One view ( near Mongu) of the HUGE Barotse floodplain - the source of the Zambezi

Barbershop in Mongu. I didn't try out their haircuts.

After several hours we found ourselves at Mongu, and the next morning visited and stayed over at Mutoya, an AOG church base where we met many old friends – a lovely community of believers who are there for varying lengths of time, from months o many years – doing beautiful things for Jesus in the community and surrounding areas, from schooling, healthcare, training pastors and growing the church in the area. Check out their website: http://www.zam.co.za/home/Vision/vision.html

Lihana van der Merwe at her house at Mutoya


On leaving Mongu, our dear hardworking Colt complained of stuck rear difflock, and also noticed oil leak from front diff. After several hours work, managed to get it driveable and got a proper fix at Mitsubishi when we got to Lusaka.

Leaving Mongu late in the afternoon, drove for a few hours, but no campsites or an such thing to be found. Pulled off the road at a 'ZAIN' cellular mast, complete with guard and he alowed us to camp there. Shared our supper of toasted cheese & tomtato sarmies with im & his friends, who were intruiged by our house on wheels. By 5 am next morning, from nowhere, there was quite a group of people sitting around his fire, waiting for the 'aliens to open the hatch'.

Helped some guys get their truck tow-started - at dawn at a town, Koama, a town a bit further down the road.

Tomorrow morning ( Sunday) we leave the smoggy and traffic-jammed Lusaka, and head east, to stay near South Luanga National Park

A Tale of 3 Rivers.

Reached the end of Caprivi, at Katima Mulilo, camping on the banks of the Zambezi. Have driven just over 7000km since home, & the beast recently clocked over 200 000 km – still going like a boeing.

In our last post, we were in Rundu, on the banks of the Okavango, after which we moved to the ‘Popa Falls’ (more like just popa rapids) area, still on the Okavango. Stayed at a really special campsite Nunda, with great hosts, who have spent years touring Africa and who shared some advice etc with us

Popa & Moma @ Popa

While there, we heard that our next river, the Kwando, was in flood. ( Kwando becomes Linyati, then becomes Chobe) Our first choice of venue was a bush camp, but inaccessible due to track under water. Met some friends who spent 9 hours recovering their vehicle from that road. Stayed at nearby Namushahsa whose access road was only partly under water.

Lovely views over swamps & network of wandering river sections. While there, our non-stop sunny days were interrupted by ‘freak’ unseasonal rain – almost non-stop thunder, lightning & showers for 2 nights & 1 ½ days. Scrabble and comfortable caravan came to the rescue, and only 1 awning pole damaged when a cloudburst & wind caused it to collapse. (mcGyvered a fix today, no spare poles for sale here).Did a partial explore of 2 parks Mudumu & Mamili but gave up due to excessive dampness & thick mud.

As already said now on 3rd river, Zambezi, which we still plan to cross three times – in a day or two as we cross into Zambia, going up to Sioma (Ngonye) falls, then higher up nearer the source of the Zambezi in Western Zambia, (if the ferry is working at Kalangola on the Barotse flood plain), then again in Mozambique on our way down. Not very confident that we can go via the ferry as the rain has been heavy and over a large area- all the way from Windhoek to Caprivi, and into Zambia too..

Tonight we had quite a unique experience. At this camp Namwi, there is a young hippo bull which is known to roam the campsite and graze at night, nicknamed ‘Stompie’. Well this evening, he came out earlier than usual, and spent the night grazing under our neighbour’s table, whicle they were cooking, then around us as we were eating. Sharon, myself & Mattie next tent, were all nuzzled by a hippo, as a dog would sniff and rub his nose against you. Sharon had hippo saliva on her sandled foot. To be honest, it was a little scary as this is still a wild animal and could do anything, but we felt quite sorry for it as it has probably been isolated from its herd, flock, pod, school of fellow hippopotami.

Have met and had good interactions with so many people – from lodge & camp owners, campsite staff to fellow travelers. At times it feels like the trip we are doing is nothing special, as there are people from so many countries travelling in the area, doing similar trips, some of which are more extravagant, others far more scheduled & mundane. What is great for us is the lack of any schedule, not having to be anywhere by any date.

A bit of a ramble…

.....been reflecting on the greatness of creation, the varied terrain from desert to bush to forest and swamps, each with its own beauty, special plants and incredible birds & animals and how grand this whole scheme is. However, I’ve had the increasing sense of a much grander scheme “behind” it all, grander than rivers & animals, space & the stars, which are all ultimately going to pass away – but there is this awesome God “hidden” behind creation, who loves us simple people with a love greater than all of creation, as He revealed in Jesus, who jealously wants all of us, with us not holding anything back from Him. In the words of (I think) Kim Walker: “I wont relent until You have it all” – and God will not relent to get all of our hearts & attention, and we should not relent until we’re giving it all to Him. What’s this got to do with travelling anyway? As I said, when we travel, we see so much more of what He has created, but furthermore, it seems a few of the people we’ve met regard the travel experience as the ultimate purpose in life, spending their savings & lives at the altar of travel, and just having to see & experience more & more, which can be a trap as much as being caught up in work, a career, sport, or making money, or whatever – just somehow missing the point of it all..

.......we ramble on

Well, MTC, my mobile service provider in Nam, had given pretty good coverage over all so far, making email and internet possible, will have to see how Zambia compares. Til next time – probably via ZAIN (ex Celtel Zambia)

Rundu special report !

Hello all you faithful followers! Was only going to do an update at end of Caprivi, but since we are spending 5 nights in Rundu, which was to be more of a stopover, felt it deserved a little special report of it’s own. The word ‘naked’ in the Spitskoppe has stirred not a little comment in emails etc…. Mmmm, how can we be a bit norty in his one – will have to see…

Left Etosha a little disappointed with lack of game, only saw the bum of an ellie besides springbok, impala, gemsbok, giraffe, villabees and birds. (Hey Mum, Les said ‘bum’!)

The Rundu area feels a bit like parts of Mozambique, with basic huts, little spaza shops & pubs in the bush, and very open & friendly local people, who respond warmly to smiles & handwaves. It makes us feel quite ‘at home’ and less touristy.

Had oportunity to help some guys stuck with 2 flat tyres and buckled rims that wouldn't seal.

The first night we arrived in Rundu, Sat evening, just after sunset , stayed at a camp in town which was clean, well run and could hear Sat night party sounds wafting in from across town and from the Angolan side of the Okavango river. Wanted to be a bit more out of town so moved camp to Kaisosi Lodge, a really great place with each site having own shower, toilet etc, a stunning deck & pool overlooking the river, and really friendly hosts, Chris & Mercedes.

Still seemed too soon to move on so we moved to a campsite west of Rundu, with campsites directly on the Okavango bank, with a lovely rural feel. Went canoeing to an island, within metres of 2 crocs, had a swim in a pool and thought of all our dear friends enjoying the cape winter…

Typical scenes on the river - locals fishing from mokoros ( called wetu ?? in this region) even a pro surfer giving it a go!

Some lazy ones have other uses for these traditional watercraft. Braaied for the 24th time in 26 nights. What a schlep :-)

Sharon’s been reading Hybels’ ‘Just walk across the room’ – and I’ve been enjoying Yancy’s ‘The Jesus I never knew’ – borrowed from Thinus, (thanks ) which is very thought-provoking and forces you to re-examine much of what you think you have settled with respect to His nature on earth, and His extreme & 'offensive' teachings & claims.

Lot of evidence here of the March flooding – a couple of ‘refugee-type’ tent camps, all of the campsites we have visited or stayed at here were previously flooded to greater or lesser degree.

Have been hearing much of the area we’re planning to tour next – Mahango Reserve area in central Caprivi – with nearby camps like Ngepi, Nunda, Bum Hill Campsite ( oops, said it again) and how unique the area is.