Drakensberg & KZN South Coast

After a really relaxing stay at Don & Joy in Randburg, we set off, recharged and with Colt & Xcape happier at having enjoyed some TLC.
Headed for the Drakensberg, where we camped at Injisuthi, a relatively rustic camp between Monk’s Cowl & Giant’s Castle.

Went for a ‘walk’ to the viewpoint, which was more strenuous than expected, but were rewarded with great scenery at the top.

After 2 days, hit the road, and made our way to the coast –







First night at Rocky Bay was windy, ... then next few days at Kelso (Happy Wanderers camp) were cloudy & rainy.


Since then have travelled south to Trafalgar – Port o’ Call camp, which must be one of the best in the country. Thus far only 1 surf on KZN coast in nearly a week. Mainly windy & rainy, so no pix. Another front of 3 days rain expected tomorrow, so gonna hibernate into our ‘van at T.O. Strand til it stops, then to the ‘Kei. However, front brings SW winds = offshore :-)
so maybe score some waves…



Can’t moan about the weather now, after having nearly 5 months of stunning African sunshine.

Tot siens!

Back - in the RSA

Moz – Jburg Last report was sent from our ‘casita’ (above) in Tofu beach. Realised I hadn’t shown an actual picture of Tofu beach, so here it is.

Nearby town Inhambane has great architecture, and since we’ve last been here, much renovation and painting has really given the town a brighter feel.

From Tofu we moved down to Ponta Zavora, a beach with an excellent reef for snorkeling, and seeing more fishies. Harold, last year we camped near the gate with the crappy ablution – found out there is another lekker camping area on top of the dune, overlooking the beach.

Just to show you it’s not all beer & skittles, working in the sand at the campsite, readjusted Colt’s front wheel bearings ( which, as we speak, are being replaced here in J’burg)

On route to Maputo, popped down to Mar de Sol near Quissico, where there are these turquoise lakes just inshore of the beach dunes. Beach looks like the SA wild coast.

Slept over at Casa Lisa near Maputo, then spent a harrowing hour or so thru 5km of Maputo’s hectic, intense rush hour. On a single lane road, there are 3 lanes, one proper one on the road, buses & taxis 5cm away on the left hand verge, dodging pedestrians, shops, stuck vehicles, and on the right hand ( in the approaching traffic lane), more of what’s on the left. These all push into one lane when a cop is seen.

After the border, we decided on Kruger’s tar roads, but the park was 38 degrees and packed with the older generation ( a pensioner discount period being in force) and we struggled to get a campsite.

Anyway, seen enuff animals, so next morning, which arrived chilly & misty, went via Pilgrim’s Rest to camp at Dullstroom which was freezing.

Nearing Pretoria, on route to Don & Joy’s in Randburg, Colt started rumbling and shaking. Found a universal joint on the propshaft knackered.

So had that fixed, treated the old girl (Colt, not Sharon) to new front wheel bearings, caravan to a new axle in Vereeniging, so all is good & clean & fresh for the upcoming section – Drakensberg, then Natal south coast & the ‘Kei.

We’re getting soft here at Don & Joy’s, what with sleeping in a house, the bleedin’ luxury of showers, tea & biscuits and meals all day, so before we lose our nerve, we’ll have to hit the highway again…

Papaws, Prawns, Palms, Pansy Shells, Peachy days, Perfect waves..

Gently does it!
Leaving Beira, ‘popped in’ at Zim border 300km away to get TIP ( temp import permit) extended. Taking it slow now with caravan, don’t need more complications.
Long drive south next day to coast, great road until the last 100km or so of really vrot potholed and broken tar. Stayed over at Inhasorro, with a nearby night club pounding all night. At 1am moved caravan into lee of nearby building to reduce volume level and try & get some sleep.

Then about 50km or so of sand road to Pomene Lodge – which is Stunning wif a kaptil S.

Pomene is situated on a sand spit, with a conservation area estuary on the inside, where we snorkeled around sunken trees, seeing the biggest tropical angelfish I’ve ever seen, zebras, moorish idols, pencilfish, squid, pansy shells, and all n all.

Had some good surf days ‘somewhere in the area’ too. Say No More, nudge-nudge, wink-wink, know what I mean?

Further south at Morrungulo, a lovely campsite with ripoff pricing, really enjoyed the beach, papaws, and prawns on the barbie.

Leaving Morrungulo on another sand road, some serious knocking started from the caravan on every bump - found the shock absorber in the towhitch A-frame broken. I remembered an entry on the 4x4 forum which mentioned the “Very Basic Mechanic “at nearby Masinga. Sure enough, the Tracks4Africa map on the GPS had the “Very Basic Mechanic “ listed and shortly we had the shock welded up sharp sharp!

Then on to Tofu beach area, where the little camping there is, is really dreadful, oh so awfully unbearable. So, as we’ve done twice before, scouted the area and cut a deal with Nordin’s Lodge on the beach. A sweet little casita, with a basic en-suite and our Jurgens Xcape is looking lonely, parked outside, sleeping on it’s ownsome for 4 nights.

Tofu beach! – a really great beach – complete with vendors trying to sell you handbags, bracelets, shells, prawns, squid, paintings etc, etc – too many times every day.

A good escape is the next bay, Tofinho, which is probably Mozambique’s best-known surf break. Cooking this morning, and after my second surf today, arms & shoulders too sore to paddle out again, typing is a lot less strenuous.

So here I sit, outside my casita, overlooking sunny beautiful Tofu beach, Sharon next to me reading ‘Emma’s War’ – about Sudan..and life doesn’t get much peachier!

Tomorrow, off to fairly nearby Ponta Zavora for a few days, then to the Republic of South Africa – heard it’s a beautiful country too.
We were going to go in via northern Kruger Park, but latest info I can find says the part of the road is quite corrugated and stony – which we’ve had enough of until I get the ‘van permanently repaired with a new axle- so we’ll take the boring tar road via Maputo to Komatipoort. Prob a short detour via southern Kruger’s tar roads to Joburg to visit Don and Joy.

Thereafter, God-willing…
.. not gonna tell you - you can read it on the next blog.

That’s enough about us and our indolent, hedonistic lifestyle. How about you? How are you, and what are you doing?

More at Bernadette’s & The Beira Experience

At Osivela wa Yesu, the children brushing teeth ...

....before they move into their classrooms.

Some of the women learning new skills – sewing classes, and their latest produce: dolls.

One less job in my self-imposed job-jar – sorting out the drains

Sunday 16th, Sharon was invited to teach at a local AOG-based church in Mocuba - she did a great job!

On Monday morning, after 3 ½ weeks with Bernadette, the time came to leave. For both Sharon & I it was a tear-filled experience, as we’d had such a good time and drawn close not only to B & Heleen, but to the staff on site Ernesto & Betina, their sons, Balita, Jose and others. Just before we left, the staff spontaneously gathered round, prayed together with us, then sang a blessing as we left. It was so moving that the first few kilometers went by in silence, just reflecting on what great people these all are, and how God joins our hearts so quickly. A few hours later we crossed the recently inaugurated new bridge – 2 to 3 kilometers wide, spanning the Zambezi. No more waiting for the ferry!

Then, around 1:30pm on the sandy road to Beira- we had a heart-stopping ( and vehicle-stopping) experience. After a not-so-bad bump, and checking the camper in the mirror, something looked squiffy. Right-hand side wheel angled outwards !

A feeing of utter helpnessness. Jacked up van, and could see something serious bent on axle – impossible to fix on the road. And then, self-capable Les suddenly needing to depend on others.

Fortunately, a check on the cellphones, surprised to find signal, so several calls to Moz contacts, and we had some English-speaking Beira people making arrangements – and a promise by Dieter Koch to rescue us the following morning. So a night camping at the roadside, heard poachers’ AK gunfire at dusk, and a restless rainy night.

Mid –morning Tuesday, the Mercedes truck with crane arrived, we discussed & sorted out hoisting,

then followed the "house-on-wheels"-on-wheels for 6 ½ hours for 112 km of sandy road, then another 40 tar road to Beira Cables, Dieter’s civil works company.

Put up our tent in the yard, and this morning (Wednesday) they "downloaded a caravan", and started the repairs.

A forlorn looking Xcape caravan

We are being wonderfully treated by the Mozambican engineering staff, who jump to assist us with the smallest things we do, and have made us feel like honoured guests.

We are sleeping in the axle-less van on the site ( clean toilets, a shower, power connection at our disposal – much better facilities than the only beachfront campsite)

I am so used to being ‘in control’ and helping others, that being helped in such a gracious way at first is very awkward for me – but have a sense that God has a hand in this – teaching me to depend more on Him, and demonstrating His love to me through people.Tomorrow being a local city public holiday ( Beira City Day) we will still be here on Friday, to finalise repairs and try and get my TIP ( temporary import permit for vehicle) extended.

One of Beira's crappy beaches (due to outflow of Pungee river with it's effluent)

Looking forward to the beautiful beaches further south - Maybe from Saturday onwards...